Category: Current Trip ( 2023 – To date)

Qatar, Bahrain and Jordon

Qatar is sandy, barren and consists of salt flats, dune desert, and arid plains. Largely because of petroleum and natural gas exports, its gross national product per capita is one of the highest in the world. On the coast is the capital, Doha, known for its futuristic skyscrapers and other ultramodern architecture inspired by ancient Islamic design, such as the National Museum.

Flag of Qatar

On arrival we where the only 2 people who here staying in Qatar the rest of the passengers where transiting. It felt strange to be the only 2 people taking our bags off the carousel, maybe this was because it was Ramadan. Doha was very quiet during the day time, there where no restaurant’s open, one or two did open to do take away food or coffee, but no restaurants will allow you to sit and eat or drink during this time. Besides supermarkets the shops where practically empty. All hours of work, opening times of museums and art galleries all change during this time. This was not something I was aware of. But as soon as the sun goes down the city came to life. Children are out playing until mid night or later and all the shops open until after 10pm. It must take a lot of coordination every year to work through this time.

Doha, is the Capital of Qatar and it has some interesting things to see like the National Museum, The current building opened to the public on 28 March 2019, The building was designed by the French architect Jean Nouvel who was inspired by the desert rose crystal, which is found in Qatar. The museum tells the story of Qatar through interactive displays, videos, and artifacts. Everything is well-organized, it is in a beautiful architectural building. You could easy spend half a day here. The building itself is worth the visit.

The very unique Katara Towers stands as an iconic architectural landmark in Lusail, Qatar. The towers encompass the luxurious Raffles, featuring 132 suites, and Fairmont Doha, which offers 362 rooms, there is also a grand ballroom, the lobby area of these hotels are stunning. (this is as far as I got) The tower represents the traditional scimitar swords. With breathtaking views of the adjacent marina and convenient access to leisure and entertainment options, Katara Towers enhances Qatar’s skyline.

Built on the site of Doha’s century old trading market, on the banks of the Wadi Musheireb, is Souq Waqif. With its mud-daubed buildings, the market harkens to a bygone era while remaining a hub of activity, it has winding alleys offer all types of souvenirs, shoes, antiques to handicrafts, the souq rewards treasure hunters, with artefacts from around the region they also have lots of spices, restaurants and shisha lounges plus sweet shops. It also gave us a glimpse into the traditional street life. It is in contrast to the dramatic modern skyline. You can also walk along the harbor and take a boat tour. We had a very nice meal here.

The weather this time of year in Doha is very pleasant. Overall we had a very nice 5 days in Doha.

Bahrain, The Kingdom of Bahrain comprises of an archipelago of islands with a total size of 712 square kilometers, situated in the Persian Gulf, to the east of Saudi Arabia and west of Qatar. Its economy depends on oil & gas, international banking and tourism. Although it is a small county it has a lot to offer.  

Flag of Bahrain

We Stayed in an Airbnb in the Capital Manama, like Qatar the country seems dry and dusty, 88% are Islam therefore it was Ramadan. We decided to hire a car for the 5 days we were there.

Our first stop was to the Gold Souq if you like gold it is an enchanting shopping destination that reflects the rich heritage of Bahrain’s trading history. As you stroll through its bustling corridors, you’ll be captivated by the shimmering displays of gold jewelry, expertly crafted by local artisans. The gold in Bahrain is generally 24 carat, this is a much softer gold than I am use to wearing, I am use to 9 or 18 Carat and to me the color is also different, I suppose it is just what you are use to. But there certainly is plenty of gold here. We also paid the Grand Mosque a visit.

The Tree of life is a 9.75 meters high Prosopis cineraria tree that is over 400 years old. It is on a hill in a barren area of the Arabian Desert, and 40 kilometers from Manama this 400 year old wonder is the epitome of survival, in the most harshest of locations. It is the apt symbol of resilience.

The journey out to see it is very interesting as you drive through the Bahraini oil fields. The Bahrain oil fields, discovered in 1932, measures approximately 15 kilometers long and 5 kilometers wide. It is a geologically complex field and consists of 16 oil reservoirs and 4 gas reservoirs. It is amazing to see all the oil Riggs and to be allowed to drive through the area.

Bahrain Fort as known as Qal’at al Bahrain, is one of the country’s most important historical treasures. this imposing archaeological site has been witness to thousands of years of the nation’s history. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005, Qal’at al Bahrain represents a window into the past that allows visitors to discover ruins of the capital city of the ancient Dilmun civilization, which was central to the trading network of the Persian Gulf. It was built on an artificial hill so it has great views I recommend visiting it in the late afternoon to watch the beautiful sunset over Manama. There is a really nice restaurant on site, we had a lovely evening meal here.

Bahrain International Circuit, a 5.412 km (3.363 mi) motorsport venue opened in 2004 and used for drag racing, GP2 Series (now FIA Formula 2), and the annual Formula One Bahrain Grand Prix. Martin was hoping to do a tour of the track, but it was not open to the public as it was getting ready for the FIA Formula race the following week. We decided to drive out to it anyway and we were very happy that we did. The gates were open, we saw a family walk in so we did the same. We were able to go into the Paddock Club, the pit lane, the main track and the grand stand. There were some workers around but no one stopped us so we continued.

We got chatting to the family that walked in ahead of us, they were an Irish family they are Expats in Bahrain. It was the day before St Patrick’s Day they invited us to a St Patrick’s day celebration in the Bahrain Rugby Club that evening. We went along and had a great night, the club was great. I would never have guessed there is such a large Irish expat community in Bahrain. What a great place to spend St Pats night.

We really enjoyed our time in Bahrain

We wanted to visit Jordan and Egypt but we had heard some interesting stories about safety in both. Therefore we decided to do another trip with intrepid, we really enjoyed our last trip with them. We found a 22 day trip. Below is a map of where we would visit.

We started our Journey in Amman in Jordan. Jordan is a constitutional monarchy in Western Asia, having gained independence in 1946. It is divided into 12 governorates, with Amman as its capital

Flag of Jordon

We flew from Bahrain to Amman. Our hotel was close to Paris square, this is a lovely area with all types of very cute restaurants with lots of different types of food like Indian, Japanese, Italian and local food there was also some nice looking coffee shops. We had a meal in Ciao Ciao, it was an amazing salad and woodfire pizza. Yum.

Our tour did not start until that evening when we would first meet the group so today we decided to go to Al-Maghtas Bethany Baptism site. This is were John the Baptist baptized Jesus. They have done a lot of investigative work to prove the exact spot of the baptismal site. “Bethany Beyond the Jordan”, is today an archaeological World Heritage Site in Jordan, on the east bank of the Jordan River. Near the site is St. John the Baptist Church, a Greek Orthodox Church, This small sandstone building has beautiful proportions. Its interior is covered in colorful Byzantine-Greek styled painted frescoes, and its floors have charming mosaic floors. The separate bell tower has windows of cobalt blue. Not far from this church stand several other construction sites, evidence of an Armenian Christian Church and a Catholic Church being built on the grounds surrounding this holy religious site. Interesting fact all religious agree on the story of our Lord life up until he was Baptized. We could bath our feet in the Jordon river on the east bank but it was a bit scary as the other side is the west bank and on both side there was solders with big rifles. It is a shame as the area is very peaceful.

The place that Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist.

From here we went to the Jordan Museum, The museum is located in Ras al-Ein district in Amman . It contains collections of artefacts that were collected from different sites across Jordan, Martin wanted to see the Dead sea scrolls, the scrolls are a set of ancient documents that date from the 3rd century BC to the 1st AD. They contain some of the oldest-known copies of biblical books. The museum is worth a stop.

Dead sea scrolls

After this we just had to stop for a coffee we found this really cute rustic coffee shop called shap yafa coffee house.

Our final stop that day was to the very impressive Roman Theatre it was one of the most completed one I have seen it is a 6,000-seat, 2nd-century Roman theatre. 

We went back to our hotel to meet the group we would be spending the next 22 days with. There was a total of 13 of 3 Australians, 4 British, 4 Americans, and 2 Canadians everyone seemed nice. Our leader was Yaser Tahari.

We all went for dinner together, we went down town it was crazy busy we shared all the food it was great especially the bread and hummus.

Day 2 Jordan

Our first stop on our trip with intrepid was to Mount Nebo is significant because of its role in the Old Testament. The Bible says that Mount Nebo was where Moses lived out his final days and saw the Promised Land. It is said that Moses’ body may be buried here, although that has yet to be proven. The Moses Memorial Church is beautiful and was built around 4th-century. It houses some of the best mosaics in Jordan, dating from around 530.

Our next stop was to visit the Dead sea and to go for a swim. It was a very strange feeling to float on top, the Dead Sea mud has been proven to have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties so we laddered it on. Interesting fact, over the past decades, one third of the surface area of the Dead Sea has completely evaporated, and the Dead Sea is shrinking. It shrinks by about 1 to 3cm each day. We had a very good lunch at the resort beside the dead sea.

Kerak Castle is a large medieval castle located in al-Karak, Jordan. It is one of the largest castles in the area and its positioning is amazing the views show the whole area from every angle. Construction began in the 1140s.

After this we made our way to Petra we were all very keen to see Petra by night as we had heard it is beautiful. It is not on every evening so we were very lucky to get to see it. It was a wonderful evening, they put candles on the foot paths to light the way to Petra the Treasury area. Then we all sat and had hot tea. They had the Treasury lit up very nicely, they had 2 performance a person playing the Thin whistle and a Singer. The mood was very surreal, to sit in this amazing area with all the history around us. I am sure the builders of this great historical building would be delighted to see that it has lasted all these years and that the world is still in awe of it.

Night time at Petra the Treasury

It had been a very long amazing day we were very thankful for the very nice accommodation we had in Petra. It was called the Petra Plaza Hotel.

Day 3.

Next day we spent the whole day at Petra, amazing, words and photos cannot describe it, there is so many things to see, the Treasury during the day looks very different but just as beautiful, the Monastery is another highlight, and so much more, spectacular tombs, monuments, and houses that were carved into the sandstone cliffs. These elaborate structures were chiseled by hand out of the rose-red rocks. All through Petra City you can see these beautifully carved buildings and monuments. As the evening approaches the sun makes the rose red rock look a vibrant orange red colour. Just beautiful.

The Monastery
The Treasury

The Nabataeans established Petra as a trade hub in the 4th century BC due to its strategic location. They mastered desert survival through advanced irrigation and construction techniques; however, Roman control ultimately led to their decline. It was founded in 312 BC, this makes Petra over 2300 years old, and one of the oldest cities in the world.

Along the walk though and around Petra there are vendors selling their goods and offering horse and camel rides. This can be a bit of a pain but they are just trying to make a living. Things have been tough for the Jordanian people as because of the war tourism has been badly effected, it was also ramada when we were there so we practically had the place to ourselves.We did visit the small Museum at the end of the day which was interesting.

That evening we all had dinner together at very good Yemen Restaurants called Sana’a Yemen, all shared plates with the best hummus ever, the chef showed us how they made the bread, just beautiful. After this we went to the cave bar for a few drinks and i tried shisha for the first time.

Day 4.

The next morning we drove to Wadi Rum –a rugged, landscape framed by huge sandstone mountains.

We headed out on a jeep safari, we drove through some unique desert scenery and uncovered traces of ancient civilizations in the many carved inscriptions throughout the area. The most enduring monuments in WadiRum are those carved by nature –natural rock bridges, towering sand dunes and scattered rocky peaks.

We stopped at a traditional camp for lunch. One of the locals explained how they made perfume, i bought a very nice pomegranate perfume they also sold tea made by locals that had medicinal purpose. They had a number of camels and it was great to be able to take photos of the camels in their natural environment.

We spend the night sleeping in a simple camel hair camp. We went to a beautiful spot for sunset, enjoyed dinner cooked in an earthen oven by our hosts and had great fun that evening with the group playing cards, drinking, having shisha and dancing the evening away.

Wadi Rum is an amazing place you feel like you are at the edge of the earth. Definitely one of the highlights for me.

Day 5.

We had an amazing scenic morning, at Wadi Rum but then had to make tracks to Aqaba but here we sadly had to say goodbye to Jordan and our local tour leader Yaser Taha, he has been amazing. We transferred onto a ferry bound for Taba In Egypt. We absolutely loved Jordon and all it had to offer.

See my post on Egypt for the rest of this Intrepid trip.

Indonesia Jakarta and Bali

Jakarta, was our next stop and first time in Indonesia. Jakarta is Indonesia’s largest city, it is a bustling metropolis with a population exceeding 10 million. It serves as the nation’s financial, commercial, and entertainment hub, anchoring the largest economy in Southeast Asia. Below is the Flag of Indonesia.

Jakarta is a very busy city the traffic jams are ridiculous. They have so many people and cars that on some of their freeways you have turns using it. Odd license plates one day, and even the next day. There are cameras that monitor this, and if you are caught using the freeways on the wrong day you are fined.

The best part of Jakarta is the The Old Town of Jakarta it was founded in the 17th century by the Dutch East India Company or the Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie (the VOC). Then called Batavia, the town had the largest volume of trade in Asia. It is an excellent example of Dutch colonial city town planning and architecture, with a beautiful town square, now named Fatahillah Square. Several Dutch buildings remain around the square, notably the Jakarta History Museum and also a Dutch vintage restaurant called the Cafe Batavia The café dates back to the early 19th century and has become an iconic landmark. The Cafe is full of old worldly charm with afternoon teas and cocktails the bar staff are all dressed in the tradition clothing of that era. The cafe looks out onto the square, there were lot of school children around on bikes and wearing colorful attire. We enjoyed the museum of fine art and ceramics, the building itself was beautiful and the 2 circular stair cases are a piece of art in themselves.

Our final stop was to the The National Monument it is a 132m obelisk in the center of Merdeka Square It is the national monument of the Republic of Indonesia, built to commemorate the struggle for Indonesian independence.

On a final note Jakarta is sinking, this is why Indonesia is moving its capital from Jakarta to Nusantara. Engineers and geoscientists have identified at least four factors as the cause of the sinking of Jakarta —excessive extraction of groundwater; the increasing weight of buildings; compaction of the young sediment alluvial soils on which the city is built; and tectonic activities. It will be interesting to see the New Capital when it is ready.

I loved these art illustrations in Jakarta Airport, they make the boring fire hoses look so much more interesting, they also brings your attention to them, so you will never forget where they are. So clever

Our next stop was Bali we had never been to Bali and to be honest we really just wanted a nice relaxing week lying by the pool, with a few drinks in hand. Bali is a popular Indonesian island destination famed for its stunning natural beauty, vibrant culture, and spiritual traditions, featuring iconic rice paddies, ancient temples, and a thriving tourist scene, a lot of these tourist come from Australia as it is only a 3 and half hour flight from Perth. What Spain is to Ireland, Bali is to Australia in regards to a tourist destination.

We loved our week here, We stayed at the Nusa Dua Bali it was very nice, what I noticed most of all about Bali was the people, they are just so lovely each and everyone of them. They could not do enough for us. Even though we had a a bit of rain it did not matter. We stayed around the Nusa Dua area for most of the week as it was nice and quite, but they do have a lot of good restaurants, one of the restaurants we really liked was called Moist, it has only been opened for 3 weeks now, the food and service was very good. We just had one day in Seminyak, they had some nice coffee and clothes shops but it was a lot busier spot than Nus Dua.

Overall we had a lovely time in Indonesia

Malaysia and Borneo Island

Malaysia comprises two regions: the Peninsular Malaysia and the states of Sabah and Sarawak Sabah and Sarawak are on the island of Borneo. It is a multi-ethnic and multi-religious federation of 13 states

Our first stop in Malaysia was Kuala Lumpur the capital and the largest city in Malaysia. Literally meaning “muddy river confluence” in Malay, Kuala Lumpur has grown from a small sleepy Chinese tin-mining village to a bustling metropolis of 7 million. We stayed in the city center. It embodies a good blend of the modernity and cultural heritage. We where surprised at all the Towering skyscrapers, including the iconic KLCC Twin Towers, that dominate the city skyline, while bustling street markets and historic temples showcase the city’s diverse charm.

On our first night we catch up with Ferando and Winnie friends from Australia, it is always lovely to meet friends from home when we are travelling. We had a very nice Chinese’s meal. Note the food courts in some of the shopping centers are next level, and the deserts are gorgeous.

You cannot miss the 451m-tall Petronas Twin Towers, a pair of glass-and-steel-clad skyscrapers with Islamic motifs. The towers also offer a public skybridge and observation deck. They are very impressive. Below the towers is the ⁦lush, 50-acre urban sanctuary⁩⁦ KLCC Park. Visitors can come to enjoy the lush greenery or the park’s wide range of amenities – from the two-acre children’s playground, running paths, a wading pool & choreographed fountain displays.

We had been told to visit the Batu Caves it is a mogote with a series of limestone caves in Gombak, it is located about 13 km north of the capital. The cave complex contains many Hindu temples, the most popular of which is a shrine dedicated to the deity Murugan. To be honest the natural caves are wonderful to see but they have been decorated with all these tacky status, there are 272 steps up to one of the caves that are painted in all different colors but it was all very cheap and tacky looking. I think they should bring it all back to its natural form and it would be much nicer. Some times we should just leave nature as it is. There are also a lot of monkeys around the area, I think people are feeding them so they expect everyone to feed them, so they can get a bit aggressive.

We decided to take a trip to The Strait of Malacca is a vital part of the Indo-Pacific because it is one of the key sea lanes linking two oceans—the Indian and the Pacific. it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site recognized for its unique blend of Malay, Portuguese, and Dutch architectural influences.

We saw the following, the notable Famosa the Portuguese fortress, The fortress was originally constructed in 1511 by Alfonso de Albuquerque, who led the Portuguese invasion of the Malacca Sultanate. 

Christ Church Malacca is a historical landmark built by the Dutch when they took possession of Malacca from the Portuguese. Today, it stands as one of the most defining structures along Jalan Gereja (also known as Church Street).It’s an instantly recognizable brick-red building with a huge white cross at the top.

The Stadthuys is a massive bright terracotta-red riverfront building and landmark in Malacca. Once the official residence of Dutch governors and officers, it’s believed to be the oldest-surviving Dutch building in the East.

St. Paul’s Church, was constructed by Portuguese nobleman and captain, Duarte Coelho, in honour of the Virgin Mary for saving his life during a storm at sea. It was originally called (Our Lady of the Annunciation). Although it is now roofless and covered in ferns, and has been in ruins for more than 150 years, it is a beautiful, breezy sanctuary 

We also took a walk down Jonker Street, it is an atmospheric thoroughfare with Markets, small boutique shops and restaurants. There was a lot of Durian for sale so we decided this would be a good time to try it. Lets just say this was my first and last piece of durian. Just not my cup of Tea !!!

St. Peter’s Church, it is the oldest functioning Roman Catholic church in Malaysia. It is a lovely church with a gorgeous grotto and garden.

We had a great time in Kuala Lumpur, it is a very impressive city. We wanted to spend some time on Borneo island, we flew from KL to Sabah on Borneo island.

Borneo is the third largest island in the world, situated in Southeast Asia, and is split between three countries: Indonesia (majority of the island, known as Kalimantan), Malaysia (Sabah and Sarawak regions), and Brunei (a small northern section);. It’s characterized by its dense rainforests, mountainous terrain with the highest peak being Mount Kinabalu.

We stayed in Kota Kinabalu the capital of Sabah for 2 weeks the first week we related and spent time booking our travel for the next 6 months. We had a lot of rain so it worked out well. We did take a trip out to some of the islands Mamutik and

The smallest island, Mamutik is also nearest to the mainland. Easy access makes the roughly triangular island very popular. Rocks line one side while sandy beaches fringe the others

Manukan is the Park’s second largest island and the most developed. Shaped like a crescent, it is one and a half kilometres long and a third of a kilometre wide in the middle. The best beach is on the eastern tip of the island and has good snorkelling to the south and east.

They are both beautiful islands. Besides the island hopping you can do from Kota Kinabalu and a few golf courses there is not much more besides shopping and markets in Kota Kinabalu.

We hired a car and drove out to Mount Kinabalu, Mount Kinabalu is in Kinabalu Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site  is the highest mountain in Borneo and Malaysia. With an elevation of 4,095 metres, it is the third-highest peak of an island on Earth, the 28th highest peak in Southeast Asia, and 20th most prominent mountain in the world. We had hoped to climb it but you have to book it nearly a year in advance. There are other hikes you can do in the Park so we decided to stay in the Park for 4 nights. The accommodation was very nice although a bit expensive. It can be very misty and it rains a lot in this area but we still managed to do some good hiking and we got some good photos of Mt Kinabalu.

We stopped at Poring it is a small tourist resort in Sabah, located 40 km south-east of the Kinabalu National Park, here you can do a canopy walk you can also take a dip in the hot springs, but when we were there most of the hot springs were closed so we just did the Canopy walk. The canopy walk is very good but before you get to the canopy you will need to walk uphill along a trail involving a significant number of steps it was fine for us but if you have knee issues it might be a problem.

We travelled from Mt Kinabalu in Sabah to Sandakan. Sandakan is a city in the Malaysian state of Sabah, on the northeast coast of Borneo. We went here as we wanted to see the Orangutans and the Proboscis Monkeys in the wild. We went to a The Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre (SOURC) it was established in 1964 to rehabilitate orphaned orangutans. It has since grown from having just an outdoor platform to having an Outdoor Nursery viewing area. It is located within the Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve, making the area suitable for trekking and birding. Besides the mums and bubs in the centre there are also orangutans in the forest near by. We did see some in the wild although only from a distance but it is always so good to see them in their natural environment. The mums and babies in the Nursery stay their until they are both strong enough to go back into the wild.

Our next stop was to see the Proboscis Monkeys. Located in Labuk Bay mangroves, this sanctuary safeguards proboscis monkeys and preserves mangrove forests. Back in the day as trees withered and fresh water sources dried up during the 97-98 El Nino drought and palm oil development closed in, the desperate monkeys found safety on the Lee Brothers’ plantation. Moved by the monkey’s plight, the Lee Brothers began to enact a simple feeding program to supplement the monkey’s diet and eventually converted part of their land holdings into Sabah’s first Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary. Over the years, the sanctuary has been expanded to 500 acres of coastal mangrove forests via land acquisition, and the restoration of degraded forests. Labuk Bay currently houses one of the largest isolated population of proboscis monkeys on the Borneo islands. Visitors can observe a variety of species including silvered leaf monkeys, otters, slow lorises, and hornbills. The sanctuary restores mangroves by replanting forests over oil palm plantations. The monkeys only come to the feeding platforms if they cannot find food in the wild it is a way to supplement their diets and to keep an eye on them. It is also a great way for tourist to get a closer look at them. It was great to see them so close. No one is allowed near them, everyone is kept at a good distance.

We were very lucky to see a hornbill, what an amazing looking bird they are. There are also lots of silvered leaf monkeys. It was a shame we did not get to see any otters but we could not complain it was so wonderful to see all the animals and the great work that the people of Borneo are doing to make sure these amazing creatures around for years to come.

Our last stop was to see the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre. The centre opened in 2014 and aims to provide care and rehabilitation to the rescued sun bears while increasing public awareness about this species. To date, there are about 43 rescued ex-captive sun bears residing at the center with continuous efforts to set them back in the wild when they are ready. 

We drove back to Kota Kinabalu and flew to Brunei our last stop on Borneo island.

5 Stans Turkmenistan Uzbekistan Tajikistan Kazakhstan Kyrgyzstan

We completed a 25 day intrepid tour of the 5 Stans.  Turkmenistan Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan the group consisted of 12 people from different parts of the world, we all had one thing in common, the love of  traveling. What a fantastic group of people. We had no food allergies, dietary requirements, only one lady had children and we where all over 32. We could not have asked for a better group to travel with. It was our first intrepid tour so we where not sure what to expect. Below is a map of the trip we took.

Out first Country to visit was Turkmenistan.

The national flag of Turkmenistan features a white crescent and five stars representing the five regions of the country and the Five Pillars of Islam. Placed upon a green field is a symbolic representation of the country’s famous carpet industry. It was introduced as the flag of Turkmenistan on 27 September 1992 to replace the Soviet-era flag.

Turkmenistan Flag

We arrived at Ashgabat Turkmenistan, our guide was waiting to pick us up. We had a very interesting arrival into Ashgabat, first we had to do a covid test at one counter which they half did, they had no idea who owned which covid result. But they charged 35 USD for it anyway. Then we had to go to another counter to get the visa, (we could not do this online) they then held onto our passport while we went to another counter to pay for the visa. Once you paid you went back to the first counter with the receipt and they gave you your passport back. Overall between the visa, taxes and covid test it cost us 130 USD, we still had to get through security and customs. it  took about 2 hours. Which normally we would not mind but this was at 1.30am. Just to be aware you will need to have a letter of invitation to get into Turkmenistan. Intrepid had organized this for us.

Our guide was waiting outside with some of the other people in our  tour group. He explained because there was a lot of diplomats in town (Putin) we could not stay in the original hotel in the city center which had been booked for us. We did eventually get to our hotel which was very basic and not good at all, it was about 20min from down town. But as it was now 4am we all headed to bed and agreed to meet for breakfast at 10am. After breakfast we had a free day at the hotel, most of us went back to bed. Our group was to meet for a welcome catchup and dinner at 6pm. Dinner was offsite. Our first impressions of the city was that it was very well kept, spotless clean, all car and buses are white as the Leader of the country only allowed white or silver cars. The city is made up of very nice white marble buildings. Our guide also told us that the Leader has his own road out to his own airport. Women are not allowed drive and are expected to sit in the back seat of the car. It was all a bit strange as there was very few people around.

We stopped at a supermarket and they had a great selection of Nuts, Biscuits and snacks. Dinner was very nice, it was upstairs from an arcade. Wow I have never been to a better arcade, They had archery 🏹  lots of virtual video games, robots, and every type of video game possible.

The next few days, we visited the following

Independent  Monument, Turkmenistan Flag, Neutrality Arch, Turkmen bashy Ruhi Mosque & Family Mausoleum of the first President, Only Indoor Ferris Wheel in the world. Anau Ruins, Ertugrul Gazi Mosque, Bazaar. We had dinner at Central Park one of the evenings it is a very nice restaurant with great view over the city, everything in the city is lit up with lots of neon lights at night time so it looks very beautiful. . It was a busy few days, but there is just something not right about this city, very few people around and the place just has an eerily feeling . The few people we did meet at the Bazaar and at the restaurant where very friendly and nice, they said they do not get many visitors so we where asked if they could take our photos of us.

This morning our first stop was at a Horse Farm it was 30min from the Ashgabat. The stables were the best kept stables I have ever seen. They were so clean with very little smell. They did not say who the owner of the farm was but whoever it is they must have some money. The Turkmenistan horses are very beautiful they are a slim horse with long slender legs. The horses are the usual colours black, brown, white and grey but they also have a gold colour horse. In the sun it really simmers. They seem to be very well looked after. They have won all sorts of events for show jumping and dressage. The do not believe in artificial insemination and allow things to happen naturally. There were a number of pregnant horses. All looking very healthy. They put on a bit of a show for us with 4 of the Stallone’s. The allowed us to ride one of the horse. It was a lovely place to see and to learn more about their horses.

From here we got on the road to Davarza Crater ( hells gate). It was a long drive and the roads are terrible such a contrast to the roads in the city centre. It was definitely the road to hell. It was a five hour 4 wheel drive, we were practically bouncing off the back seat. We arrived at hells gate just before Sunset. Davarza Crater is ( a burning natural gas field that collapsed into a cavern, the crater has been burning since the 1980s). It is in the Karakum desert.

After we had a look around we took a short walk to our accommodation tonight our accommodation is Yurts, we had never slept in a yurt before. They are surprisingly big inside and fit 4 single beds comfortably, they also have small combustion fire inside to keep us warm. We settled in and then had dinner. The temperature had dropped a lot. After dinner we walked back across to see the Davarza Crater at night time. It is more Impressive in the Dark.

The next day we had a 5 hours drive the boarder between Dashoguz, Turkmenistan to Shavat, Uzbekistan. We hit the road enroute to Khiva – with a few sightseeing stops along the way. Our first stop was in Kunya Urgench, once a main hub of the Islamic world, it suffered destruction at the hands of Genghis Khan and the Timurid dynasty and fell into decay until the 20th century. We explored a mosque, mausoleum and 60 metre Gutlug Timur Minaret in this interesting city. After a little time to explore, we’ll continue to the
Turkmen/Uzbek border of Khodjeyli (Xo’jayli) and on to Khiva

This boarder crossing went fine. No hassle or requests from any of the guards, we guessed Uzbekistan may not be as strict as Turkmenistan.

Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan is a Central Asian nation and former Soviet republic. It’s known for its mosques, mausoleums and other sites linked to the Silk Road, (the ancient trade route between China and the Mediterranean).

Uzbekistan Flag

On the flag the crescent moon: Represents the birth of a new nation and is connected to Uzbek historical imagery. 12 stars represent the country’s 12 regions, the ancient solar calendar, and the pursuit of perfection and happiness

In Uzbekistan we visited the following cities  Khiva, Bukhara, Samarkand, Tashkent, these cities had Fortresses, Palaces,  old towns, Mosques, Minarets, Madrassa, Mausoleums , the famous Registan Square, some beautiful gardens, Bazaars that sell everything  from spices, to appliances and everything in-between and museum that helped us understand the very interesting history of the stans, plus art and cultural museums.

Khiva: We stayed in the old walled city of Khiva and absolutely loved it. Our accommodation was warm and inviting, we loved how the rooms are decorated. The breakfast each morning was very good. Khiva has a very nice feel to it the people are very nice. They had some very cute coffee shops and some wonderful roof top restaurants. We had a wonderful body scrub and mask in a hammam. There was so much to see and unlike the city of Ashgabat there is lots of people around, going about there daily lives.

Photo taken by the very Talented Photographer Remco Franssen
Roof top restaurants

We visited the magical blue-tiled Kalta Minor Minaret and the Mohammed Amin Khan Madressa. Then, explore the Kuhna Ark, the ‘citadel within a citadel’ which once housed the Khan and his family in the 17th century. We continued to the Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum, a complex constructed in honor of the famous 13th-century poet, craftsman and fighter – the mint-coloured dome that tops the main mausoleum is stunning. We marveled at the towering Islom Hoja Minaret, the tallest building in Khiva. We explore Juma Mosque and saw how the roof is propped up by 212 wooden columns designed to let in sunlight. We visited the Uzbek luxury – explore Tosh-Hovli Palace, built in the first half of the 19th century with its elaborate decorated courtyards connected by labyrinthian corridors.

We had a wonderful time in Khiva it is a city that is definitely worth stopping. We had a long drive from Khiva to Bukhara for a few days.

Bukhara we arrived in the late afternoon but the long drive was soon forgotten as we were swept up in the beautiful mosaics and incredible ancient monuments of this destination. It was founded no later than the 1st century BC, across its many years, the city has been ruled by countless empires and dynasties.

First up, visit the Sitorai Mohi Khosa – once the summer palace of the last Bukharan emirs. Designed by Russian architects, it has interiors decorated with traditional filigree plaster, mirror surfaces and delicate floral wall paintings crafted by local artisans. After some time to explore this palace, we continued to the little-known, 16th-century Chor-Bakr necropolis. This complex was
built in 1563 by a Shaybanid Dynasty ruler to memorialise his family – with a number of their graves found here, it’s also known as the ‘city of the dead’. We wandered through the madrasa and mosque.

In the afternoon, we visit the Ark Fortress and Kalon Mosque before continuing to one of Central Asia’s oldest and most exquisite structures – the tenth-century Ismail Samani Mausoleum. The superb decorative brickwork here has survived 1000 years of rugged history and the geometric architecture is recognized the world over.

Photo taken by the very Talented Photographer Remco Franssen

Each evening we spent time wandering the small craft studios tucked into the nearby madrasas and trading domes. We bought some beautiful embroidered pillow cases.

Our next city was Samarkand we left Bukhara on a high-speed train bound for Samarkand. On our first evening we went to the very amazing Shak-i-Zinda, a necropolis that features a series of gleaming, blue-tiled mausoleums. This sacred site has monuments from the 14th-19th century, reflecting the development of the monumental art and architecture of the Timur
dynasty onwards. We were drawn to capture photos at every turn, but as always photos do not do it justice.

We continued onto the central square called Registan, which features three of the most famous madrassahs in Uzbekistan It is a beautiful site. The name Rēgistan means “sandy place” or “desert” in Persian. The Registan Square is a real gem located in the very heart of the ancient city of Samarkand. It has gained its worldwide fame thanks to the great architectural ensemble that has become a monument of the oriental architecture.

First up the next morning we went to the Gur-Amir mausoleum where the great Uzbek conqueror, Tamerlane, is buried. There rest his two sons – Shahrukh and Miranshah, beloved grandsons – Muhammad Sultan and Ulugbek as well as Timur’s spiritual mentor – Mir Said Baraka.

We continued to the enormous Bibi Khanum Mosque, This enormous mosque is the largest of its kind in Central Asia, able to hold about 10,000 worshippers. the Bibi Khanum Mosque was built from the spoils of Timur’s invasion of India, including 95 elephants used to transport materials.


That afternoon we explored the ancient bazaar we sampled Khalva (local sweets made of sunflower seeds and or peanuts) and had a glass of squeezed pomegranate juice. The bazaar had all sorts of fruits, spices sweets, souvenirs, crafts and very nice people that allowed us to take pictures and try there wares

That evening we went to a Plov cooking demonstration (Plov, the national dish of Uzbekistan is the ultimate social food. It brings people together, at life events-weddings and funerals-and official events.) and afterwards we had the dinner of Plov with the local family that did the demonstration. The Plov was very good. The family are just gorgeous. The girls did traditional dances for us and the oldest daughter told us the story of the arranged marriage that her family tried to arrange for her that did not go to plan. This family is a very progressive which was great to see. They were very happy to share their home, traditions, dance and stories with us.

The group and the beautiful family.

We loved Samarkand. The next afternoon we got back on the High Speed train and set off to Tashkent.

Tashkent is the capital and largest city of Uzbekistan. It is the most populous city in Central Asia, with a population of more than 3 million people as of April 1st 2024. It is located in northeastern Uzbekistan, near the border with Kazakhstan.

What I will remember most about Tashkent is hopping on the metro for a tour in the station to see its extravagant decoration. The Tashkent Metro in Uzbekistan is known for its art, which includes mosaics, chandeliers, murals, and tileworks. Each station has a theme that reflects a range of topics, including local history, the Soviet space program, and industry and agriculture. The stations were designed by prominent artists and architects from Uzbekistan and the Soviet Union. The stations are decorated with a variety of materials, including glass, metal, marble, granite, ceramics, plastic, and alabaster. Some notable stations include

  • Kosmonavtlar (Cosmonauts): This station honors Soviet cosmonauts, including Yuri Gagarin and Valentina Tereshkova. It features a high ceiling with a band of oblong-shaped “stars” that replicate the Milky Way, it is fantastic.
  • Gafur Gulom: This station is named after the Uzbek poet, writer, and translator Gafur Gulom. It features columns with many faces, and illuminating station lights hidden in the domes.
  • OybekThis station features characters from an epic poem by Oybek, the Uzbek poet. 
  • The Tashkent Metro opened in 1977, when Uzbekistan was still part of the USSR. Photography was prohibited for decades due to national security concerns, but the ban was lifted in 2018.

We did a city walking tour and explored Amir Timur Square at the city Centre. Visited some Metro Stations to see the Art works. We visited the State history Museum and learned about the history of the country.

We ended our tour at the Chorsu Bazaar, it is mainly a fruit , meat, vegetable and spice market but does have a clothes section as well. 

The next day we visited the The Tashkent Television Tower is a 375-metre-high  tower, and is the twelfth tallest tower in the world. The views from here are amazing.

The 5 Stans Group

The next day we hit the road to the Oibek border to cross into Tajikistan before
arriving in Khojand. Tajikistan encompasses the smallest amount of land among the five Central Asian states, but in terms of elevation it surpasses them all, enclosing more and higher mountains than any other country in the region.

Tajikistan Flag

Khujand is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia, dating back about 2,500 years to the Persian Empire. This city is known as Alexandria Eskhata (Alexandria the furthest) and believed to have been founded by Alexander the Great in 6th century BC. Our first stop was the History Museum The museum has been built within the Khujand Fortress, reconstructed in 1999 on the southeastern corner of the old city wall. The mosaics depicting Alexander the Great’s battles and artifacts from ancient Cyropolis and Alexandria Eschate make it worth the visit. The arch in kamoli khujand park is beside the Museum the Arch symbolizes the entrance to the park dedicated to the renowned poet Kamoli Khujandi,

.We continued onto the magnificent Cathedral Mosque, Masjidi Jami, built during the period from 1512 to 1513 it is the city’s oldest mosque, whose interiors are spectacularly intricate. It is next to a newer mosque and a bazaar that is just across from both of them, it is a hustling and bustling place.

The next day we had an interesting drive to Iskanderkul Lake. The trip took us across the Shahriston pass (with an elevation of 3378m) the drive was full of twists and turns, with big pot holes on the high-altitude highway. We got a puncher which was not surprising, the driver with the help of M changed the tire, it was not a problem and gave us time to take a few scenic photos. It was nice to get out into the mountains to Iskander Lake, named after Alexander the Great, this place is a weekend destination for many locals from Dushanbe The Snow capped mountains and crystal clear blue lake, make for breathtaking scenery. We did a short hike to a waterfall along the way, lake Iskander river creates a 38 metres waterfall, known with locals as “Niagara” That night we stayed in Sary Tag a mountain village in the heart of Fann mountains.
We had a little time to explore the village that evening and it was so nice to see all the children out playing football even though it was quite cold. The had a small school and a shop and everyone had chickens. It is a very picturess village and also very remote. Lake Iskanderkul is beautiful and well worth a visit.

The next morning, we hit the exciting mountain roads once more and drive over the Anzob Pass (with an elevation of 3373m) to Dushanbe – the capital of Tajikistan. We paid a visit to Hissor Fort, the former capital of Eastern Bukhara province. The fortress is located atop a hill overlooking the town of Hisor, it has very impressive stone walls, commanding gateway and perfectly manicured gardens.

The next day was a busy day of sightseeing in the Capital Dushanbe with a local guide. We saw Rudaki square, Ismail Somoni and Independent monument overlooking city hall and friendship palace. The Museum of National Antiquities, which opened in 2001. We checked out exhibits from Tajikistan’s pre-Islamic civilizations (Greek/Bactrian, Buddhist, Hindu and Zoroastrian). The centerpiece is the 14m reclining Buddha in Nirvana – since the tragic destruction of the Bamiyan statues in Afghanistan, this is the largest surviving Buddha statue in Central Asia. That evening we went to a fantastic restaurant the 28 Monkeys Gastropub, the food was amazing and the cocktails are to die for. Such a good way to end our time in Tajikistan.

We flew from Tajikistan to Almaty the largest city in Kazakhstan. Kazakhstan is the largest country in Central Asia and the ninth largest in the world. Covering some 2.7 million square kilometers. Kazakhstan has vast mineral resources and enormous economic potential.

Kazakhstan Flag

Almaty is known as skier’s paradise, with snow-capped mountains framing the entire city. With beautiful parks, ritzy restaurants, excellent museums and plenty of shops and markets to choose from, this city stands in stark contrast to the countryside surrounding it.

We had a full day of sightseeing in Almaty today.

First we wandered around the local Street markets, there was some very interesting items for sale. We stopped at a really cute coffee shop before we continued to the fascinating Museum of Kazakh Musical Instruments. It was great to see all the different types of instruments some similar to ones we have in Ireland like the Irish Harp. It was also good to see that some of the musical instruments have not changed much from the ones they use today. A very nice gentleman played us a lovely tune while he relaxed in the Sun.

Central Square and the colorful Zenkoff Cathedral in historic Panfilov Park, dedicated to the guardsmen who died defending Moscow against Nazi tanks in WWII. State Historical Museum, which features a great collection of ancient relics. And finally, summit Kok Tobe Hill to take in the breathtaking views over the city before returning to the hotel to relax after an action-packed day

To relax that evening Jenna and I went to get a body scrub and steam. It was a very interesting evening, we went to a place called Arasan bathhouse it is more than just a sauna complex – it is an important part of the history of the city. Since 1984, this bath is a monument of national importance. The complex is designed to serve up to 2.5 thousand people per day. It consists of 12 pavilions. 230 women and 270 men can be in the complex at the same time. The facade of the bath has no architectural excesses and looks quite modest, which cannot be said about the interior of the building. The complex includes a male and a female department, each of which has 3 types of baths: Russian, Finnish and Turkish. In addition, inside you will find the pool with clean water, extracted from its own artesian well, as well as various wellness and SPA procedures. Lets just say it was another good experience but be mindful that their body scrubs maybe a be harsh if you have sensitive skin.

The next morning, we drove to Saty Village with a stop along the way at the spectacular Charyn Canyon. The richly coloured orange canyon etched into the surrounding landscape is no less impressive than the Grand Canyon in the US (though much smaller). It was very windy and cold but also very beautiful the orange clay reminded me of the outback in Australia.

Saty Village The village emphasizes the consumption of locally produced goods and services, promoting traditional crafts, local farmers, and culinary delights. The village residents have small cattle and poultry farms and grow vegetables and fruits. As a result, community members can sell meat and dairy products and cook all the dishes offered to visitors using local products. That evening we stayed in a very nice cosy homestay.

We’ll explored the surrounding area of Saty Village with a crazy drive to Kaindy Lake, a stunning turquoise lake with a striking ‘submerged forest’ protruding from the water. Amazingly, the lake was created by an earthquake in 1911 which caused a limestone landslide causing a dam in the forest. As time went on, the dam filled with water and the trees were covered, leaving just their trunks standing dramatically in the centre. It was beautiful as there was lots of snow around.

We then continued Kolsai Lakes – also known as ‘the blue necklace’ for their azure water framed by lush, green mountains. The drive to the lake and the hike through the forest was well and truly worth it once you arrive at these lakes. We had a big hearty dinner that evening and relaxed as it had been a big day of hiking and driving the crazy pothole roads. explore as you wish.

The next morning we crossed the boarder to Kyrgystan. Kyrgyzstan is a largely mountainous country. At its eastern edge rises Victory (Pobedy) Peak, which at 24,406 ft (7,439 m) is the country’s highest point of elevation. The country’s valleys and plains, occupying only one-seventh of the total area, are home to most of its people

Kyrgyzstan Flag

In the afternoon, we enjoy a little sightseeing in Karakol, once a small Russian military post, then a bustling soviet state, this town is bursting with history we visited the Dungan Mosque, built in 1910 this colourful mosque was created without the use of a single nail – instead, the structure was built using special cutting and groove techniques. The Karakol Historical Museum tells the story of the Karakol region through its history, culture, and development. The museum features artifacts from ancient times to the present day.

We also got a chance to explore the Holy Trinity Orthodox Cathedral, this was one of the nicest churches I have ever been in, it was full of real plants, and when the windows are open a beautiful breeze blow though, it has a very calming vibe.

After breakfast, we drove along the south shore of Lake Issykul. It is one of the largest lakes in the world, the lake is 178km long and 60km wide – it’s a fantastic sight to see! And of course I got in for a swim. We had a beautiful lunch beside the lake, the weather was glorious. On route, we stopped to see the picturesque Jety Oguz, also known as Seven Bull Valley renowned for its distinctive red sandstone rock formations that resemble seven bulls

From here, we continue to Skazka (Fairy Tale) canyon where we marvelled at the rich orange landscapes that blanket the area – it’s dry and arid but there’s something incredibly beautiful about this place.

That evening, it was such a treat to stay in a yurt camp by Lake Issykul. A truly special experience, yurts have a long history in this area – used for generations by nomadic tribes as the structures are easy to transport and assemble. We had a great meal and lots of fun that evening playing cards and drinking vodka. It was a great night by the lake and under the stars!

Today we wandered the beautiful alpine area. We went to meet a local eagle trainer (or Berkutchi) and discover the ancient principles of training these beautiful creatures to follow commands, catch prey and return
back to their masters. The eagles are very well looked after and look very healthy. We tried artery which was lots of fun. The family showed us how their dogs hunt the Taigan or the Kyrgyzdyn Taighany dog is a breed of medium-sized sighthounds bred for hunting roe deer, ibex, fox, wolf, and marmot. Aside from using its sight, it can hunt prey in the rugged mountainous region of its native land by hearing and scent .

We visited a local family who thought us more about their traditional yurts and how they are made. We learn the basics of how these nomadic dwellings have been manufactured and how they play an important role in the community here. We also got the chance to put a yurt together. We also learn how they make felt and had a lovely meal with the family afterwards.

That evening we drove to Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. The next day the we did a tour of the city it has a very interesting history. Ala-too Square, which was known as Lenin Square in Soviet times. Lenin used to stand in his concrete overcoat in the middle of this square, proudly gesturing towards the mountains. Ala-Too is a popular place for festivals, celebrations, and holidays. Then, we went to Dubovy (Oak) Park, where there was a few open-air cafes and lush, century-old oaks.

Sadly this is the last night of our trip. Wow what an amazing 28 days we have had. Intrepid and in particular Xenia our tour guide did a fantastic job, we absolutely loved the 5 Stans. It was also a fantastic group to travel with and I know we will miss them all. If you get a chance to do this trip I would recommend it 120%.

Cambodia

Cambodia is a constitutional monarchy and multiparty liberal democracy. It’s still one of the world’s poorest countries, but it’s making progress in health, education, and reducing infant mortality. 

Cambodia Flag

The flag of Cambodia has three horizontal bands of blue, red, and blue, with a depiction of Angkor Wat in white with black outline. The colors of the flag have specific meanings: Red: Represents bravery and courage, Blue: Represents territory White: Represents purity

We have just spent the last month in Cambodia. We had decided to do some volunteer work here as we had heard that there are a lot of needy families In Siem Reap, especial in the countryside. We had been told by friends that there is a company called VBC (Volunteer Building Cambodia) that are very professional and a great company to help. I had sent them our details and they had organized for us to help them plus another volunteer to build a house, the way it works is, if they get enough donations to build a house they will do so.

The family are 7, four girls aged 4, 10, 12 and 16 a baby boy 2months and mam and dad. They live in a very badly made hut. No clean water. No electricity no phones, nothing. The father if he can get work earns 6 dollars a day. Nothing from the government no dole no children allowances. The 3 older girls go to school, but have to walk about an hour and half. Or use a tired old bike.

VBC Volunteer Building Cambodia assess each family and will not take on a family if there are any drug or alcohol issues, they also only take on families that try their best to send the children to school as they believe education can get the families out of these situations. This family were chosen after a lot of discussions and interviews. So we got to work.

So in ten days,  the team on the ground, plus a few volunteers, neighbors from the village, with a total donations and participating fee of around $5,000 usd the following was achieved. The donations came from Fred (the other volunteer), M&I my mum and dad and my sister.

1. We built a house to get the family off the ground.

2. Put in a water pump, that pumps the water up from the water table.

3.  Installed a Water Filter system for clean drinking water.

4. A solar panel that gives the family light and a ceiling fan.

5. Construction of an outdoor toilet.

6. The family were bought the following, cooking utilities, bed clothes, pj, underwear, toiletries, school uniforms, books for school, 2 good second hand bikes for the girls to get to school, vitamin tablets to build the family up, plus bags of rice and other non perishable foods. Basic stuff that families need to live.

It is amazing what can be achieved when a group of people are all on the same page. It was an amazing experience for M&I we fell in love with the family even though we could not speak their language. It was great for us to see how the donations are used. (Not all going into administration). Although we do understand some money needs to be spent on Admin. The VBC team are an an incredible bunch of people who are all so selfless with their time, They so want the lives of their people to be better. The house we worked on was house 511, this is the number of homes they have built so far. The family are delighted with what we all achieved together. We really hope this will help them all have a better life. VBC are a company that we will continue to support whenever we can.

After our Volunteer work we spent a week relaxing at visiting the sites of Siem Reap. Seam Reep has a nice feel to it. The night markets are fun and pub Street is very lively on the weekend. We did a tour that covered the following temples.

Angkor Wat, is a Hindu-Buddhist temple located on a site measuring 162.6 hectares within the ancient Khmer capital city of Angkor, it was originally constructed in 1150 CE as a Hindu temple dedicated to the deity VishnuIt is a very impressive place.

Angkor Wat

Ta Prohm is cloaked in dappled shadow, its crumbling towers and walls embrace of vast root systems. Undoubtedly the most atmospheric ruin at Angkor, its appeal lies in the fact that, unlike the other monuments of Angkor, it has been swallowed by the jungle, and looks very much the way most of the monuments of Angkor appeared when European explorers first stumbled upon them.

Ta Prohm
Ta Prohm

The Bayon was the state temple of King Jayavarman VII, built at the end of the 12th century. It is a mountain temple built to represent Mount Meru, the center of the universe in Hindu and Buddhist cosmology

Bayon Temple
Bayon Temple

Phnom Bakheng is a Hindu temple in Cambodia that was built in the late 9th century. It’s located on a hilltop. The temple is a pyramid-shaped complex with terraces and is dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. The views are wonder from here. There was less tourists here but I loved it.

Phnom Bakheng
Phnom Bakheng

It was an amazing day the temples are the best and oldest we have seen.

Some additional photos of our tour.

Phnom Penh the capital is a lot more serious, with lots of Embassies, governments buildings and a lot of empty high rise apartments. Phnom Penh, sits at the junction of the Mekong and Tonlé Sap rivers. It was a hub for both the Khmer Empire and French colonialists. The riverfront is lined with parks, restaurants and bars.

We did go to Choeung Ek Genocidal Center (killing fields) which is a very sad and somber place, Pol Pot was another egotistical ass, he was the political leader whose communist Khmer Rouge government led Cambodia from 1975 to 1979. During that time, an estimated 1.5 to 2 million Cambodians died of starvation, execution, disease or overwork. We also visited S-21 detention Centre were only 7 of  20,000 people imprisoned there survived. What one leader can do in 4 years !!! All very Sad.

Out of respect these are the only photos we took of the Killing fields and S-21

Our last tour was to the Royal Palace, beautiful spot.

Overall we had wonderful time in Cambodia, the highlight was working with VBC, if you ever feel like volunteering this is the company to call.

Loas

Laos is a landlocked country in Southeast Asia. It’s known for its unique demographics and rich cultural heritage. Laos is bordered by China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, and Myanmar.The country is mostly mountainous and forested. The flag’s colors and symbols represent the country’s history and values. Red: Symbolizes the blood shed by those who fought for freedom and independence Blue: Represents the Mekong River, which is a symbol of prosperity and an important part of Laos’ industry White circle Represents unity and the bright future of the country Symbolizes the full moon rising over the Mekong River

Our first stop in Laos was an Eco resort on the outskirts of Laung Prabang. The Hillside natural lifestyle Lodge it is a beautiful place and just the relaxing place I was looking for. The pool was great to have after a day of hiking.

We did a few hikes, visited the water falls, (The Nahm Dong Waterfall is one of the last unexplored places around the UNESCO World Heritage Luang Prabang. The dam at the top was build by French people and it is said it was the first dam ever build in Laos) the park and waterfalls are very nice. The whole place is so relaxing we also slept and read lots of books. The food was great here and the staff are very friendly especially the owners. The weather was a perfect 24 degrees. I would definitely recommend this Eco Resort.

For Christmas week we moved into the Centre of Luang Prabang. What a lovely town we loved all the cool bars, restaurants, night markets and beautiful sunrise and sunsets at Mount Phousi. It has 360-degree panorama of Luang Prabang, including the Mekong River and surrounding mountains there are 328 steps to reach the summit and a small temple at the top of the hill. It is worth the climb.

We did a great tour that included the Laung Prabang Tat Kuang Si National Park that has the Si Waterfalls and the gorgeous Bear Rescue Centre. The waterfalls are beautiful and it was lovely to see 2 young bears at play. The tour also included the Pak Ou Caves featuring thousands of Buddha statues of various sizes nestled within the imposing limestone caves of a mountain were the Mekong River flows, we also had a very relaxing Lunch while we floated along the Mekong River. It was a beautiful day for it.

We did visit the UXO Visitors Centre it was very interesting and we learned a lot, we did not know that Laos is the most heavily bombed nation, per capita, in history? Between 1964-1973, Laos was hit by an average of one B-52 bomb-load every eight minutes. The US dropped more bombs on Laos during this period than those dropped during WWII. A large percentage of the ‘bombies’ that rained down on this country remain in the earth – unexploded – continuing to cause a devastating impact, with casualties and injuries a regular occurrence. The Centre in Luang Prabang offers you the chance to learn more about the Secret War. There are displays of real-life bombies, compelling survivor stories, as well as a viewing room where you can watch a documentary about the dangerous work being done to clean up the bombies.

I have mentioned before the number of motorbikes and scooters in Asia, it is unbelievable, but i did think the ones in the picture below are very cute.

It was wonderful to catchup with good friends from Australia, Marty, Michael and the three beautiful girls, they just happen to be travelling through Loas the same time as us. It is always so nice to catchup with friends when travelling we had a wonderful evening with them.

We decided to spend New Years in the Capital Vientiane. We got the fast train from Luang Prabang to Vientiane it was very comfortable and my favorite way to travel.

Vientiane is the largest city and the capital of Laos, situated on a plain just northeast of the Mekong River. The city’s central river port location for a country that relying heavily on rivers for transportation.

In some ways it was like any other large City, the did have fireworks for New Years Eve. Their fireworks are centralized around their monument built to commemorate Laos independence from France. I thought the monument funny as it looks just like he Arc De Triomphe in Paris !!!!

We did visit Buddhist temples such as the golden, 16th-century Pha That Luang, which is a national symbol. There are lots of temples and Buddhis in the area.

We had a wonderful time in Loas. Next stop Cambodia.

Vietnam

Vietnam is a long, narrow nation shaped like the letter s. It is in Southeast Asia on the eastern edge of the peninsula known as Indochina. Its neighbors include China to the north and Laos and Cambodia to the west. The South China Sea lies to the east and south. An area of about 331,000 square kilometres (128,000 sq mi) and a population of over 100 million, making it the world’s fifteenth-most populous country.

We had 30 wonderful days travelling through Vietnam. We travelled with friends from Australia. Angela and Rodi, Mitosa, Mark and their 2 children, Akira who is 7 and Luca who turned one when we were in Vietnam. Mitosa can speak Vietnamese as Mitosa family are originally from Vietnam. Mitosa still has family in Vietnam so she know the country very well, she is a fantastic person to travel Vietnam with.

Our first stop was Ho Chi Minh City it was formerly known as Saigon. It is a vibrant city in Vietnam that’s known for its history, culture, and food it is the most populous city in Vietnam, with a population of around 10 million. The city’s geography is defined by rivers and canals, of which the largest is Saigon River. It is called after Ho Chi Minh he was president of North Vietnam from 1945 to 1969, and he was one of the most influential communist leaders of the 20th century he led a long and ultimately successful campaign to make Vietnam independent.

We did a full day tour travelling along the Mekong Delta on a speed boat with with Angela and Rodi. Angela’s Dad served in the Vietnam war, he was in the navy and part of his job was to protect the waters of the Mekong Delta against snipers. So Angela was keen to travel along the same waters. We stopped at the Thu Thua Market and Thu Thura Dai Temple and a orphanage which was a bit sad to see all the poor children. We stopped at a local house for lunch and wine tasting the owners also had a pet anaconda it was huge . It was an emotional day for Angela but overall we did enjoy it.

We did a wonderful XO Foodie motorbike tour . At XO Tours all the guides are women, they are well versed in English, offer a high level of customer service, and provide invaluable insight into daily Vietnamese life. All of the girls are very nice and all of them put safety first. They are all very proficient on the motorbike/scooters.

Our menu was very diverse and offers a great selection of meats, seafood, fresh vegetables and fruits. They did not make us eat dog meat, bugs, organs, raw food or anything too weird. Not only was the food great but it was a great way to see parts of the city that the majority of tourists don’t get to see. On the tour, they took us to 5 other popular districts and we got to see how real Vietnamese people live, work and eat! It really was a great experience and so much fun.

Angela, Rodi, M and I visited the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City, the museum exhibits war crimes and the impact of foreign aggression on the Vietnamese people. The museum’s exhibits include military equipment, graphic photography, and artifacts from the First Indochina War and the Vietnam War. It is very confronting, and sad. Wars that really no one won and lots of human life lost. When will we learn.

After visiting the War Remnants Museum we all need to relax. Massages in Vietnam are very reasonable so we all decided to have one. Mind you some of us seemed to enjoy it more than others, as I could hear someone snoring from our group while I was having my massage. The hotel we stayed in Fusion Original Saigon Centre was very nice and the pool area was very much needed and used as it was very hot. There are some great bars in Ho Chi Minh City but the famous Bui Vien Walking Street was too much for me, it was so loud, (i must be getting old) with lots of vendors trying to get you into their bars and restaurants.

We flew from Ho Chi Minh City to Hue. Hue, the former imperial capital of Vietnam during the Nguyen Dynasty.  

There was 2 things we wanted to see and do in Hue, first was to try the famous Bun Bo Hue: It’s a rich and spicy soup with deep layers of flavor. This Central Vietnamese soup is paired with tender slices of beef and pork, then topped with lots of fresh herbs. The dish originates from Huế, and is associated with the cooking style of the former royal court. We tried it in a very local restaurant that was known for a tasty Bun Bo Hue. It did not disappoint it was delicious.

The other major attraction is its vast, 19th-century Đại Nội Citadel, It is a must see if you are in Hue. Construction began in 1804 under Emperor Gia Long and was completed in 1833 under Emperor Minh Mang it was the political and cultural center of Vietnam. The citadel is surrounded by a 68-foot (21-meter) defensive barrier. It has many impressive structures, including Thai Hoa Palace, Dien Tho Residence, and Hien Lam Pavilion. It is home to the Nine Dynastic Urns, a national treasure the citadel has ten main gates, including the North Gate, West Gate, and South Gate. It is a significant site of worship for ancestors and the late emperors of the Nguyen Dynasty and monumental achievement of the Nguyen Dynasty. The citadel was designated a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in 1993. It is very impressive and covers an area of 520 hectares. I just loved the gardens, so make sure to put at least half day, aside to see it.

Hue has a nice feel to it, the town center is not as busy as Ho Chi Minh City and the bars and restaurants have a more relaxed feel. There is not as many tourists so no overcrowding Yahoo.

From here we got a very comfortable private bus for the 8 of us to travel to Hoi An. The trip took about 4hours.

Hoi An is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Vietnam that was a major trading port in Southeast Asia from the 15th to 19th centuries. It’s known for its well-preserved architecture, lantern-lit streets, and rich history. We stayed in the very quaint Son Hoi An boutique hotel. It was in walking distance to the old town. The breakfast was very good and the outdoor balcony was great to have a few drinks in the evening time.

We loved walking around the old town it has some amazing restaurants and small bars hidden in the alley ways or some great roof top bars. I think this is one of my favorite towns.

We got some clothes made in Hoi An. In other countries we had seen clothing shops that could make you clothes very quickly but they all seem to offer the same material and designs but this place was different it is called LiMe Store 107 Tran Cao Van, Hoi An Vietnam. Linen clothing with pockets. The girls measured us up and all my stuff was perfect. I would definitely recommend, not too expensive and well made.

We did a tour that included a cooking class and a fun boat Basket Boat Ride in the Coconut Forest. The Vietnams cooking class was great we first went to the markets to buy the ingredients, learned how to make the rice paper from scratch, and then did the cooking class, it was lots of fun.

We celebrated Martin and Luca birthday it was a joint 60th birthday, we went to a very nice restaurant in the middle of a rice field. I will let you decide the ages.

The food we most liked here was the Banh Mi the best one I recon was at Bánh Mì Phượng Address 2b Đ. Phan Chu Trinh, Cẩm Châu, Hội An, Quảng Nam 560000, Vietnam Great crunch roles with Chicken and avocados Yum.

Our next stop was Hanoi we flew from Da Nanh airport to Hanoi. Hanoi is the Capital of Vietnam and the cultural, economic and education center of Northern Vietnam. We stayed at the Acoustic Hotel & Spa which was right in the center. The roads are crazy just like Ho Chi Minh with all the motor bikes and scooters.

We did a great Jeep tour. It started with lunch in the Hidden Gem Cafe, great place and the food was very tasty. After lunch they took us to the train bridge by Eifel (built by the same guy who built the Eifel tower in Paris), then out to Red River delta to green oasis with stunning views of banana plantations, fruit, vegetable, and flower farms. we visit local villages and communities where you we witness local farmers at work. Our journey through the Red River Countryside was enhanced by a home-visit to a local family. A great experience was then had by all with a beer on train street, as the train past by ( a bit too close for comfort) . Additionally, we drove past the top city landmarks, such as Hanoi Flag Tower, Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Ba Dinh square, Opera House, Long Bien Bridge, Westlake and Phan Dinh Phung boulevard, Thang Long Royal Citadel, Yellow Cathedral. We also went through flower street. It was a great Jeep Tour and a wonderful day.

We did a tour of the Hoa Lo prison (Hanoi Hilton) it was was one site used by the North Vietnamese Army to house, torture, and interrogate captured servicemen, mostly American pilots shot down during bombing raids. The prison has a very interesting history and is well worth a visit. Our final tour in Hanoi was to visit Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. It is a large memorial to Vietnamese independence leader Hồ Chí Minh. This is where his body is kept for people to pay their respects. Even though he died in 1969 the Vietnamese doctors took on the responsibility of the long-term medical preservation of his remains with experts from the Lenin Institute. The queuing and palava that went on to see the body was more interesting than the body itself.

We did visit St. Joseph Cathedral as it had a beautiful nativity scene on the outside. We ended the evening with a visit to a hidden bar Bee’zees, it has great cocktails.

Our next stop was Ninh Binh were we had hoped to do a bit of relaxing. We got a bus from, Hanoi to Ninh Binh. Ninh Binh is a province in northern Vietnam that’s known for its natural beauty, history, and culture. It’s located in the Red River Delta region, about 90 kilometers south of Hanoi. Our accommodation was beautiful and although it was a bit out of town, it was easy to get taxi into the city Centre or to cycle into Tam coc. Our first night we went into Hoa Lư Old town and had dinner along the beautiful river. The views took our breath away.

Next morning we cycled into Tam Coc the views again are stunning everywhere you look.

We did a motorbike sunset tour that evening. I was very relaxing.

We did a Tam Coc boat tour it was a delightful journey through picturesque landscapes, where we glided along the Ngo Dong River and explore enchanting caves. The caves are the longest and most impressive caves we have ever been in, 127 meters long. It was an immersive experience, we just relaxed and enjoyed the tranquil beauty of nature.

 

Out of all the places we have been to in Vietnam, Ninh bin in my opinion has the most natural beaty of anywhere else. Just gorgeous everywhere you look.

All of the places mentioned above had great food, specialties like, Banh Mi, Bun Bo Hue, Com GA, Pho, Bun Cha, also great little bars, hidden down alleyways that are hard to find but so worth the effort, quirky cute coffee shops with lots of different types of coffee a specialty is their egg coffee, not bad at all. There are lots of hand crafts and art works. Crazy traffic, rules that no one seems to follow but it just works. Lovely people everywhere with lots of common sense and seem to manage to just get stuff done, nothing is too hard. Mind you a lot of this trip would not have been possible without Mitosa she did so much research before the trip, just fantastic. Thanks again Mitosa. Sadly it was here we said goodbye to our friends. What a great group to travel with, the memories will last a life time.

Our trip through Vietnam was not over we still had two places left to visit. Sapa in the north. Sapa is a small town in northwest Vietnam, known for its natural beauty, ethnic diversity, and trekking. We decided to get a sleeper bus from Ninh bin to Sapa, we had not been on a sleeper bus before so it was another new experience our bus was a Bunk style bus arranged in a 2×1 layout, with lower and upper bunks each seat is situated within a capsule-like space seats recline into a bed-like position, so it was a very comfortable way to travel.

Sleeper Bus

For our trekking tour we decided to go for Sapa Sisters Trekking Adventures because it is a social enterprise owned by the local guides who belong to the Black Hmong minority and because it is entirely owned and run by women. We did a 3 day 2night trek, i should mention the weather was not in our favor it was heavy rain and cold so the trekking was very muddy and slippery. The scenery would have been amazing if we could see it, it could be clear one min and next you are in thick fog and could not see you hand in front of you. It was such a shame but this is all part of travelling. We did stay in 2 local homes which where very interesting. Both home were very large but with very little furniture, just small plastic chairs and tables and a small fire in the centre of the room, as the house are not at all insulated they are very cold. There were plenty of covers on the beds so that was good. The bathrooms are wet rooms with no shower screens so the water goes everywhere on the toilet and sink and all over the floor, mind you we had got used to this, as it seems to be the same in much of Asia. Again this is all part of travelling in other countries. The families in both houses were very nice and cooked us some very nice food. It was very nice to share dinner with the families. Sapa sisters are amazingly, strong, fit and short women with hearts of gold. It was great chatting to them about daily life and the struggles they have with getting jobs, bringing up families with very little money. The women seem to be the bread winners of the families, the head of the house hold and the ones that look after the children. They are amazing resilient people. We enjoyed our time in Sapa it was just a shame the weather was so bad. We will just have to come back another time when the weather is better.

You see I am tall in some countries

Our last stop in Vietnam was Luc Yen at the Xoi Farm Stay. The weather was much better here, the rain had stopped and it was much warmer. The Xoi farm is in a beautiful settling and area. The rooms are rustic but gorgeous.

We did a local bike tour with the son. It was great as he brought us to a few different houses in the area that were being built and explained how they built their homes. We also stopped in to meet his Mother and Father in-law who are delightful, they asked us to stay for lunch and a few drinks. They made us very welcome and cooked us a beautiful lunch, we also shared some home made wine. Even though we could not speak their language we managed to communicate with them. I helped the mum feed their water buffalo, pigs and chickens. While M and the dad had a few drinks. How hospitable, a family that did not know us, to invite us into their home to share lunch and drinks. We were blown away. We loved our 3 days here it is a beautiful place with wonderful people. It was a highlight of our trip to be sure.

XOI Farm and accommodation

What a fantastic time we have had in the amazing Vietnam, what a wonderful country. I would recommend visiting this country 110%.

Thailand

The last time we were in Thailand was over 20 years ago. We were looking forward to see how much it has changed. As we had just finished our 5 Stans trip we needed some relaxing time, so we are hoping to get this in Thailand. Thailand is a Southeast Asian country. It’s known for tropical beaches, opulent royal palaces, ancient ruins and ornate temples displaying figures of Buddha.

Our first stop was Bangkok. We stayed in a nice hotel The Quarter Chao Phraya It is on the The Chao Phraya River the major river in Thailand. It is a very busy river it is a key artery for public ferries and tourist cruises. Its banks are adorned with iconic landmarks like the Grand Palace and Wat Arun, making it a cultural and scenic highlight of Bangkok. We did a few trips on the river, we went across to Jacks Bar for dinner and a few drinks, a great local bar with cheap drinks and good food, right on the river. We took a trip to Asiatique the River front, this is a place with night Markets, food stalls and restaurants. We found an amazing shoe shop called Perfect Combination Company. We both bought a pair of shoes here, although a bit more expensive than other shops, the shoes are very unique, comfortable and very well made. We could not leave Bangkok without a visit to Icon Siam, it was the food court and market stalls that we loved, so different than any we had been to before. We also had to pay a visit to the Sky Bar that is located at the Lebua at State Tower hotel in Bangkok, this was a bar that was featured in the Hangover Movie that M just loved.

Sky Bar

We hired a driver for the day and went to Ayutthaya a city in Thailand, about 80 kilometers north of Bangkok. It was capital of the Kingdom of Siam, and a prosperous international trading port, from 1350 until razed by the Burmese in 1767. The ruins of the old city now form the Ayutthaya Historical Park, an archaeological site that contains palaces, Buddhist temples, monasteries and statues. It was good to see the old unrenovated Temples, monasteries and statues so many places we have visited have renovated/rebuilt so it is hard to imagine what they truly looked like back then. The park is on an island between 3 rivers. It was nice to get a blessing and to meet some of the monks while we were there. The park is very interesting and well worth a visit. See map below of all the places we went to in the park.

Our last stop was to the Ayothaya floating markets, I was looking forward to doing a bit of shopping but I was very disappointed as the markets are very tired and rundown, there where very few people there. Overall it was a good day, our driver/tour guide was full of information.

It was good to have 6 days in Bankok to relax and refresh and to see the best it has to offer. Now onto Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai (meaning “new city” in Thai) was founded in 1296 as the new capital of Lan Na, succeeding the former capital, Chiang Rai. Chiang Mai is a city in mountainous northern Thailand. The city is renowned as a centre of Thai handicrafts. specializing in crafts such as silverwork, wood carving, and making pottery, umbrellas, and lacquerware.

We stayed in a nice Airbnb, just a 3min walk to the famous night markets. The markets are wonderful and sell everything from clothes, souvenirs, crafts, jewelry and food. It is a busy place with lots of tourists and locals enjoying the markets. There are some temples in the city Centre we could walk to.

Wat Chedi Luang is known for its large chedi (pagoda) and Lanna-style architecture. Construction began in 1391 by King Saen Muang Ma to bury his father’s ashes, but was not completed until the mid-15th century. The temple’s chedi was once 80 meters tall and 60 meters across at its base, and was home to the Emerald Buddha. The chedi was damaged in an earthquake in 1545 and is now nearly half its original height, Wat Chedi Luang is part of a temple complex that includes three temples: Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Ho Tham, and Wat Sukmin: The complex also features other buildings, including: Wihan: A sanctuary that houses a large, 14th century golden Buddha statue. Teak pavilions: Contain chapels and statues, including a huge reclining Buddha and a seated Buddha. Chiang Mai Pillar City Shrine: A shrine that is only accessible to men. It is an active monastery with monks and novices, Monk chats. Monks can often be found on the north side of the temple grounds during the day, ready to chat with visitors. This daily “monk chat club” is a popular activity that takes place from 9 AM to 6 PM. Visitors can learn about Buddhism and Thai culture from the monks, while the monks get to practice their English. I really like this idea, it is a great way for the monks to integrate with the community and tourists.

Wat Phra Singh is one of the most important temples in Chiang Mai. The higlights include Phra Singh: A famous Buddha image housed in the Wihan Lai Kham chapel. Viharn Lai Kham: A striking chapel with gilded naga gables and gold-pattern stencilling. It’s the most famous structure at the temple and dates back to 1345. Lanna-style roofs: The temple features ornate Lanna-style roofs. Replica of the Buddha’s footprint: A replica of the Buddha’s footprint on a stone slab. Door panels: The temple’s door panels show themes of earth, water, wind, and fire. 

It is an active monastery with monks and novices: Over 700 monks and novices live and learn at the temple, coming from Thailand and other parts of Southeast Asia. Meditation sessions The temple offers meditation sessions led by monks, which are open to visitors and locals.

We did a tour to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep it is doubtless Chiang Mai’s most venerated temple on the mountain called Doi Suthep. It is a sacred site for most Chiang Mai people. The temple is about 15 km from the city of Chiang Mai. It was a sunrise tour, it was beautiful to see the sunrise from the temple, as you have a fantastic view over Chiang Mai. It was founded in 1383 by King Keu Naone, the temple’s origins are tied to a legend about a sacred relic that is said to be a bone fragment from the Buddha’s shoulder. The temple includes a golden chedi (shrine) that houses the relic, as well as pagodas, statues, and murals. The temple is also surrounded by shrines where pilgrims leave offerings. To reach the temple you need to walk up 306-step staircase or you can take a tram. We brought offerings to the Monks, food and they did a short meditation session with us. It is a beautiful place.

From here we went to the Hidden Temple: Wat Pha Lat it is located in the jungle, a few kilometers before the famous Doi Suthep temple. It was Built in 1355 after King Kuena’s white elephant died at the site. It features Old stone structures, intricate carvings, stone stairways, Buddhist statues, a walkway over a waterfall, and a small mountain spring. 

You can hike the Monk’s Trail from the base of the mountain, there are meditation retreats here, and you can watch the sunset. Out of all the Temples we had seen in Thailand this was my favorite. It was less ornate than the others but because it is surrounded by water and in the Jungle it was so much more peaceful than the others.

Chiang Rai is a city in northern Thailand, in a mountainous province. The city is near the borders of Laos and Myanmar (formerly Burma). Our bus trip from Chiang Mai was very pleasant. It took about 3.5 hours, we went on a VIP bus that was air conditioned and very spacious, instead of having 4 seats across, it only has 3, the seats can also almost lay down fully. Our accommodation was about 20min walk from the center of town. It has a relaxed atmosphere, the food was good especial it Khao Soi (a local dish) and good-value accommodation. Out of the 3 place we visited on this trip this was my favorite. It has kept it local culture without giving in to much to the tourists. The centre of town does have night markets and lots of outdoor eating but there is a good mix of locals and tourists all happily eating and enjoying the shopping together.

It also has a lot to see. Below are the places we visited.

Clock tower: It is an elaborate golden clock tower in the center of a traffic circle, it has a light performance for 10 minutes three times per day at 19.00, 20.00, and 21.00 hrs. It has a unique design this and it is the same designer and architect of the White Temple. (Master Chalermchai Kositpipat) The glorious array of laser lights and accompanying sounds in the background of whizzing motorbikes, tuk-tuks and cars is a must-experience.

We had heard a lot about the Blue and the White Temple so we had to visit.

The Blue Temple (Wat Rong Suea Ten) was painted predominantly blue by the artist and designer Putha Kabkaew ( A student of Master Chalermchai Kositpipat who designed the White temple) to represent the heavenly heavens of Buddhism. The intricate designs in the temple also symbolize the culture and history of the Lanna people. It has an unusual decorative choice in a country where most temples are made of gold. It opening in 2015. The building’s interior is as beautiful as its exterior, the paintwork on the celling is amazing. The are a number of other buildings and Statues on the property so plenty to see. Well worth a visit.

We continued to the White Temple, it was created by master Chalermchai Kositpipat, the national artist who designed, constructed it.

Wow was our first impression, It has a real fairy tale look about the temple. The temple itself is only part of it, there are a number of buildings to venture into. It is not an active Buddhist temple because it has no monks residing. Construction of Wat Rong Khun, also known as the White Temple in Chiang Rai, Thailand, began in 1997 and was completed in 2008. However, new elements are still being added to the temple.

When you see the main chapel from outside you don’t really anticipate what you will see inside, it is very interesting. The wall is adorned with statues of Buddhas and other Buddhist symbols, but the opposite wall will definitely make you raise your brows in surprise when you see burning twin towers, angry birds, Spiderman or characters from Star Wars. Besides them you will see Michael Jackson, Freddy Kruger, Terminator, Neo from Matrix, Transformers, characters from Avatar, Harry Potter, Elvis Presley and even Kungfu Panda. This was the artist idea to show the good and bad using images from the West and unfortunate events of 9/11. These unusual murals are placed opposite the Buddhas. They are meant to show that people should free their minds from bad intentions, and that violence, greed, and hedonism is the wrong way of life.

The additional buildings are The Ganesha Worship Hall, The Museums and Galleries, Tankhun Gallery. The Art Cave and an important statue of Saman Kunan, a Thai Navy Seal who died in a rescue attempt at the nearby Tham Luang cave. You could easy spend 3 hours here, there are also some good restaurants and coffee shops, across from the Temple .

Our next stop The black house or black temple in Chiang Rai was created by the late Thawan Duchanee – a Chiang Rai native and another former student of Chalermchai Kositpiapa the artist who built the White Temple. His creation portrays the time-transcending Buddhist belief of reincarnation. The main theme of Baan Dam is “The darkness of the heart of man”. You will also find themes from Buddhism like death and rebirth or the cycle of birth, ageing and decay. Another theme is suffering caused by human desire, represented by large phalluses in several of the houses. A complex of 40 buildings in various styles, the Black House contains a collection of paintings, sculptures and silver and gold items, animal bones and skins. It is the world’s largest collection of animal remains made into furniture and art installations. It was not really my cup of tea but I can understand that it might be others.

We did visit The Kayan Long Neck tribe village they are a Tibeto-Burmese ethnic group, who originate from Myanmar/Burma, they are not native to Thailand. All of the Kayan Long Neck who live in Thailand have crossed the border as refugees from Myanmar. Most of them have fled persecution to seek safety and refuge in Thailand. It is a bit touristy but we did buy some items from them, we hope this helped in some way. I was very curious to see these villages as I had never seen a Long Neck Tribe before. When the girls are as young as five, they start wearing the brass rings around their necks. As they age, the coil is replaced by a longer one, and more turns are added, making the neck look elongated and stretched, hence the name “long neck.” The rings are heavy and cause bruising around the collarbone and neck, but this does not deter the women from wearing them. The neck itself does not stretch; instead, the collarbone and rib cage is weakened, collapsing down under the weight of the ten pound coils.

When the women become young adults, they are given the option to continue wearing the rings, or they can have them removed; most choose to keep them on. The women are very friendly and encouraged us to take photos and try on the half set of rings that are just tied at the back. The families had some lovely bags, scarfs, hats and clothing that they hand made, for sale. Even though their homes were basic they seem happy.

We took a trip to the Opium museum

The Golden Triangle is the area where the borders of Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar (Burma) meet at the Ruak and Mekong rivers. Chiang Rai province in northern Thailand is the gateway to this unique region in Southeast Asia.

Most of the world’s heroin came from the Golden Triangle until the early 21st century when opium production in Afghanistan increased. Myanmar was the world’s second-largest source of opium after Afghanistan up to 2022, producing some 25% of the world’s opium. Laos and Thailand have both reached such low levels of opium poppy cultivation that they do no longer produce for the international opium market. Currently Myanmar has moved to the number one spot, and is now the world’s largest opium producer.

Foreign traders (primarily British) had been illegally exporting opium mainly from India to China and Thailand since the 18th century,

The House of Opium is a small private museum established by Mrs. Phatcharee Srimathayakun. Phatcharee knew that if these antiques were not preserved, they may be all bought and dispersed by foreign collectors. Therefore, in 1989, she opened House of Opium museum to display opium artifacts and combine the interesting stories of opium in the Golden Triangle.  There are 2,000 additional artistic objects. The presentations are simply, preserving the concept of a small museum while providing a comprehensive knowledge of opium in the Golden Triangle through its valuable antiques. It is worth a visit to learn the history of Opium

Thailand now grows coffee, Tea and Tobacco the government encouraged this rather than the production of Opium. We visited one of the Tea plantations Doi Mae Salong, besides the beautiful tea field landscape spreading as far as the eye can see, you’ll also find the truly chic Choui Fong Tea Café, it is a very beautiful spot that reminded me of the vineyards in Australia.

Chiang Rai is full of surprises with lots to do and see.

Malta

On our last big trip we spent 10 days in Malta, we loved it so much we came back to spend 5 relaxing weeks. It has been great getting to know more about Malta. To see the last blog page I did on this refer to this blog (Malta – Valetta, Birgu, Gozo and Camino island August 2018).

Malta has 2 groups of people. One that wants to preserve the old architecture and others that are happy to put up high-rise apartment building. You can clearly see the area’s that have become tourist havens. Lots of Restaurants not serving any local dishes but serving with the crowed want, high rise apartments, lots of night life, beaches over crowed that have sunlounges with little space in-between. Not my type of a holiday, but i know know this appeals to many. When we go to visit a country we want to see how the locals live, eat and spend their time.

Some of the area’s and things we missed on our last trip.

Cathedral of Gozo: Designed by renowned Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà, the Cathedral of Gozo is built entirely from limestone. Constructed between 1697 and 1711, it has five bells upon it, although the roof of the Cathedral is flat, inside, the ceiling cleverly shows a painted masterpiece dating back to 1739 and depicting the ceiling as a dome, confusing many a first-time visitor. It is interesting to know that Malta has 359 Churches

Mdina: Mdina was the former capital of Malta, it is a walled city perched on a hill in the Centre of Malta it is so beautiful and photogenic. It is a lived city and easy to walk around. There are lots of places to eat or drink and absorb its glory. It has all the old architecture with lots of narrow streets and the The Gallarija which is a typical element of vernacular Maltese architecture, consisting of an ornate closed wooden balcony. It is so worth a visit.

Rabat: Rabat is a town in the Northern Region of Malta. It adjoins the ancient capital city of Mdina,  Rabat offers its own charm. It has narrow streets, historical houses and many attractions. And if history interests you, Rabat’s rich medieval vibe won’t disappoint. Dating back to the third century BC, when burial was prohibited within the city of Mdina, St Paul’s catacombs are located in this tranquil city. Serving as a burial ground from Punic, Roman and Byzantine times the St Paul’s Catacombs represent the earliest and largest archaeological evidence of Christianity in Malta. We went to visit them, they are amazing and the best we have seen. It is like a whole underground maze of Catacombs.

Gzira: It is a town in Malta we had a week here, this is one of the area’s that is starting to get very touristy it is creeping in from Sliema. It would be good if they can preserve some of its character.

We also had a week in Senglea: Senglea is one of the oldest cities of the Maltese islands dating back to the 16th century. This maritime city not only boasts of a rich heritage but also contains many structures built by the Knights themselves, making it one of the heaviest fortified areas on the island. It has a lot of charm and a lot of older Maltese people live here. It has a very large work port and is kept very busy with all the cruise ships that come into Maltas Harbour.

Our number one favorite places in Malta is Birgu we just love it here. I think because it is surrounded by water the beautiful Malta Harbour, Fort St Angelo and it has all the old architecture with lots of narrow streets and the The Gallarija (malta wooden balconies) There is also a beautiful swimming spot that we took advantage of most days.

My sister and her son joined us for one week while we where here. It was wonderful to spend time with them.

We had a wonderful time in Malta and now feel refreshed to continue on with our travels. Bring it on.

Taiwan

Taiwan, is an island in the western Pacific Ocean that lies roughly 100 miles (160 km) off the coast of southeastern China. It is approximately (395 km) long (north-south) and (145 km) across at its widest point. Taipei, in the north, is the is the Capital.

Flag of Taiwan

We stayed in the Centre of Taipei in a small Airbnb down an alley way. It was in a great location close to everything.

Our first stop was Bangka Lungshan Temple it is a Chinese folk religious temple in Wanhua District, Taipei, Taiwan. The temple was built in Taipei in 1738 by settlers from Fujian. It served as a place of worship and a gathering place for the Chinese settlers. The temple has been rebuilt on several occasions, and each time it was done by the local community. Residents rebuilt after every earthquake, flood, and fire without much help from government agencies or wealthy benefactors. To this day, locals take pride in the fact that every stone and carving was paid for by donations from the community. The temple now stands as an incredible testament to the resilience and devotion of the local people. It is a very beautiful Temple.

There are some great outdoor bars and restaurants, it was a shame it was so hot while we where there. But we managed to get out and about.

Bangka Lungshan Temple

The Taipei 101 building stands at 508 meters high, Taipei 101 is the world’s tallest energy efficient building. Awarded a Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Platinum certification for its design and energy efficiency, 101 is exemplary when it comes to electricity use, garbage production and water consumption. The Observation Deck is the best place to get a view of the bustling Xinyi District in Taipei, and you will take the world’s fastest elevator to the 382 meter observation deck on the 89th floor. With a 360-degree view of Taipei, you can enjoy a bird’s eye view of Taipei from above. It has an impressive 660 ton steel pendulum that serves as a tuned mass damper, this minimizes the sway of the building during typhoon and earthquake season.

We visited the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall. The memorial hall was built in memory of Chiang Kai-shek, the first president of the Republic of China. Work on the hall began in 1976, a year after President Chiang passed away. It is said that he was a brutal dictator in China and later in Taiwan. His secret police and army killed a lot of civilians. In recent years there has been an ongoing debate over whether to continue commemorating a dictator with a grand building in the heart of the capital. How the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall should be transformed has become an important issue for Taiwanese society. It is a very nice building with very nice gardens and a lovely coffee shop.

We did a day trip that brought us to Taiwan’s northeast coast we went to the rock formations in Yehliu Geopark a landscape of honeycomb and mushroom rocks eroded by the sea. Well-known formations named for their shapes include the Queen’s Head and Dragon’s Head.

Our next stop was The Jiufen Old Street is a narrow alleyway lined up with small food stalls, tea houses, cute souvenir shops, and pottery stores and the views are great from here.

We continued on to the Shifen Waterfall which lies between Dahua Station and Shifen Station on the Pingxi Railway Line in Pingxi District, New Taipei City. Torrents of water thunder down this curtain-type fall like a white satin sheet. As the water plunges into the large, deep pool beneath, it raises mists that often enshroud the falls.

We went to Shifen Old Street, The Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival takes place annually in February, and it attracts thousands of visitors from around the world. However, you can also participate in the tradition year-round at the , on this street. Coming from Australia I was concerned about bush fires so did not partake. Overall it was a very enjoyable day.

We had booked a nice hotel in Hualien County for our wedding anniversary and to spend a few days at Taroko National Park, the park is suppose to have some great hikes and the Taroko Gorge, (which the park is named after) the landmark gorge of the park carved by the Liwu River. As we had booked this some time back we where disappointed to learn that the park was still closed after the  earthquake that measured 7.2 on the Richter scale struck Hualien on April 3 and severely damaged some parts of the park. We saw some of the damage on our drive down to Hualien. The hotel was very pleasant and we did visit the local evening markets and a traditional aboriginal restaurant. The food was very good with a few items that did not sit well with me. But M loved it. Mu Ming Restaurant

Mu Ming Restaurant

Owl Sculpture at the night markets.

We had a lovely time in Taipei it an interesting place.

We now travel back to Australia for my nephew wedding, to catchup with friends in Sydney, Noosa and Melbourne.