Thailand

The last time we were in Thailand was over 20 years ago. We were looking forward to see how much it has changed. As we had just finished our 5 Stans trip we needed some relaxing time, so we are hoping to get this in Thailand. Thailand is a Southeast Asian country. It’s known for tropical beaches, opulent royal palaces, ancient ruins and ornate temples displaying figures of Buddha.

Our first stop was Bangkok. We stayed in a nice hotel The Quarter Chao Phraya It is on the The Chao Phraya River the major river in Thailand. It is a very busy river it is a key artery for public ferries and tourist cruises. Its banks are adorned with iconic landmarks like the Grand Palace and Wat Arun, making it a cultural and scenic highlight of Bangkok. We did a few trips on the river, we went across to Jacks Bar for dinner and a few drinks, a great local bar with cheap drinks and good food, right on the river. We took a trip to Asiatique the River front, this is a place with night Markets, food stalls and restaurants. We found an amazing shoe shop called Perfect Combination Company. We both bought a pair of shoes here, although a bit more expensive than other shops, the shoes are very unique, comfortable and very well made. We could not leave Bangkok without a visit to Icon Siam, it was the food court and market stalls that we loved, so different than any we had been to before. We also had to pay a visit to the Sky Bar that is located at the Lebua at State Tower hotel in Bangkok, this was a bar that was featured in the Hangover Movie that M just loved.

We hired a driver for the day and went to Ayutthaya a city in Thailand, about 80 kilometers north of Bangkok. It was capital of the Kingdom of Siam, and a prosperous international trading port, from 1350 until razed by the Burmese in 1767. The ruins of the old city now form the Ayutthaya Historical Park, an archaeological site that contains palaces, Buddhist temples, monasteries and statues. It was good to see the old unrenovated Temples, monasteries and statues so many places we have visited have renovated/rebuilt so it is hard to imagine what they truly looked like back then. The park is on an island between 3 rivers. It was nice to get a blessing and to meet some of the monks while we were there. The park is very interesting and well worth a visit. See map below of all the places we went to in the park.

Our last stop was to the Ayothaya floating markets, I was looking forward to doing a bit of shopping but I was very disappointed as the markets are very tired and rundown, there where very few people there. Overall it was a good day, our driver/tour guide was full of information.

It was good to have 6 days in Bankok to relax and refresh and to see the best it has to offer. Now onto Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai (meaning “new city” in Thai) was founded in 1296 as the new capital of Lan Na, succeeding the former capital, Chiang Rai. Chiang Mai is a city in mountainous northern Thailand. The city is renowned as a centre of Thai handicrafts. specializing in crafts such as silverwork, wood carving, and making pottery, umbrellas, and lacquerware.

We stayed in a nice Airbnb, just a 3min walk to the famous night markets. The markets are wonderful and sell everything from clothes, souvenirs, crafts, jewelry and food. It is a busy place with lots of tourists and locals enjoying the markets. There are some temples in the city Centre we could walk to.

Wat Chedi Luang is known for its large chedi (pagoda) and Lanna-style architecture. Construction began in 1391 by King Saen Muang Ma to bury his father’s ashes, but was not completed until the mid-15th century. The temple’s chedi was once 80 meters tall and 60 meters across at its base, and was home to the Emerald Buddha. The chedi was damaged in an earthquake in 1545 and is now nearly half its original height, Wat Chedi Luang is part of a temple complex that includes three temples: Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Ho Tham, and Wat Sukmin: The complex also features other buildings, including: Wihan: A sanctuary that houses a large, 14th century golden Buddha statue. Teak pavilions: Contain chapels and statues, including a huge reclining Buddha and a seated Buddha. Chiang Mai Pillar City Shrine: A shrine that is only accessible to men. It is an active monastery with monks and novices, Monk chats. Monks can often be found on the north side of the temple grounds during the day, ready to chat with visitors. This daily “monk chat club” is a popular activity that takes place from 9 AM to 6 PM. Visitors can learn about Buddhism and Thai culture from the monks, while the monks get to practice their English. I really like this idea, it is a great way for the monks to integrate with the community and tourists.

Wat Phra Singh is one of the most important temples in Chiang Mai. The higlights include Phra Singh: A famous Buddha image housed in the Wihan Lai Kham chapel. Viharn Lai Kham: A striking chapel with gilded naga gables and gold-pattern stencilling. It’s the most famous structure at the temple and dates back to 1345. Lanna-style roofs: The temple features ornate Lanna-style roofs. Replica of the Buddha’s footprint: A replica of the Buddha’s footprint on a stone slab. Door panels: The temple’s door panels show themes of earth, water, wind, and fire. 

It is an active monastery with monks and novices: Over 700 monks and novices live and learn at the temple, coming from Thailand and other parts of Southeast Asia. Meditation sessions The temple offers meditation sessions led by monks, which are open to visitors and locals.

We did a tour to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep it is doubtless Chiang Mai’s most venerated temple on the mountain called Doi Suthep. It is a sacred site for most Chiang Mai people. The temple is about 15 km from the city of Chiang Mai. It was a sunrise tour, it was beautiful to see the sunrise from the temple, as you have a fantastic view over Chiang Mai. It was founded in 1383 by King Keu Naone, the temple’s origins are tied to a legend about a sacred relic that is said to be a bone fragment from the Buddha’s shoulder. The temple includes a golden chedi (shrine) that houses the relic, as well as pagodas, statues, and murals. The temple is also surrounded by shrines where pilgrims leave offerings. To reach the temple you need to walk up 306-step staircase or you can take a tram. We brought offerings to the Monks, food and they did a short meditation session with us. It is a beautiful place.

From here we went to the Hidden Temple: Wat Pha Lat it is located in the jungle, a few kilometers before the famous Doi Suthep temple. It was Built in 1355 after King Kuena’s white elephant died at the site. It features Old stone structures, intricate carvings, stone stairways, Buddhist statues, a walkway over a waterfall, and a small mountain spring. 

You can hike the Monk’s Trail from the base of the mountain, there are meditation retreats here, and you can watch the sunset. Out of all the Temples we had seen in Thailand this was my favorite. It was less ornate than the others but because it is surrounded by water and in the Jungle it was so much more peaceful than the others.

Chiang Rai is a city in northern Thailand, in a mountainous province. The city is near the borders of Laos and Myanmar (formerly Burma). Our bus trip from Chiang Mai was very pleasant. It took about 3.5 hours, we went on a VIP bus that was air conditioned and very spacious, instead of having 4 seats across, it only has 3, the seats can also almost lay down fully. Our accommodation was about 20min walk from the center of town. It has a relaxed atmosphere, the food was good especial it Khao Soi (a local dish) and good-value accommodation. Out of the 3 place we visited on this trip this was my favorite. It has kept it local culture without giving in to much to the tourists. The centre of town does have night markets and lots of outdoor eating but there is a good mix of locals and tourists all happily eating and enjoying the shopping together.

It also has a lot to see. Below are the places we visited.

Clock tower: It is an elaborate golden clock tower in the center of a traffic circle, it has a light performance for 10 minutes three times per day at 19.00, 20.00, and 21.00 hrs. It has a unique design this and it is the same designer and architect of the White Temple. (Master Chalermchai Kositpipat) The glorious array of laser lights and accompanying sounds in the background of whizzing motorbikes, tuk-tuks and cars is a must-experience.

We had heard a lot about the Blue and the White Temple so we had to visit.

The Blue Temple (Wat Rong Suea Ten) was painted predominantly blue by the artist and designer Putha Kabkaew ( A student of Master Chalermchai Kositpipat who designed the White temple) to represent the heavenly heavens of Buddhism. The intricate designs in the temple also symbolize the culture and history of the Lanna people. It has an unusual decorative choice in a country where most temples are made of gold. It opening in 2015. The building’s interior is as beautiful as its exterior, the paintwork on the celling is amazing. The are a number of other buildings and Statues on the property so plenty to see. Well worth a visit.

We continued to the White Temple, it was created by master Chalermchai Kositpipat, the national artist who designed, constructed it.

Wow was our first impression, It has a real fairy tale look about the temple. The temple itself is only part of it, there are a number of buildings to venture into. It is not an active Buddhist temple because it has no monks residing. Construction of Wat Rong Khun, also known as the White Temple in Chiang Rai, Thailand, began in 1997 and was completed in 2008. However, new elements are still being added to the temple.

When you see the main chapel from outside you don’t really anticipate what you will see inside, it is very interesting. The wall is adorned with statues of Buddhas and other Buddhist symbols, but the opposite wall will definitely make you raise your brows in surprise when you see burning twin towers, angry birds, Spiderman or characters from Star Wars. Besides them you will see Michael Jackson, Freddy Kruger, Terminator, Neo from Matrix, Transformers, characters from Avatar, Harry Potter, Elvis Presley and even Kungfu Panda. This was the artist idea to show the good and bad using images from the West and unfortunate events of 9/11. These unusual murals are placed opposite the Buddhas. They are meant to show that people should free their minds from bad intentions, and that violence, greed, and hedonism is the wrong way of life.

The additional buildings are The Ganesha Worship Hall, The Museums and Galleries, Tankhun Gallery. The Art Cave and an important statue of Saman Kunan, a Thai Navy Seal who died in a rescue attempt at the nearby Tham Luang cave. You could easy spend 3 hours here, there are also some good restaurants and coffee shops, across from the Temple .

Our next stop The black house or black temple in Chiang Rai was created by the late Thawan Duchanee – a Chiang Rai native and another former student of Chalermchai Kositpiapa the artist who built the White Temple. His creation portrays the time-transcending Buddhist belief of reincarnation. The main theme of Baan Dam is “The darkness of the heart of man”. You will also find themes from Buddhism like death and rebirth or the cycle of birth, ageing and decay. Another theme is suffering caused by human desire, represented by large phalluses in several of the houses. A complex of 40 buildings in various styles, the Black House contains a collection of paintings, sculptures and silver and gold items, animal bones and skins. It is the world’s largest collection of animal remains made into furniture and art installations. It was not really my cup of tea but I can understand that it might be others.

We did visit The Kayan Long Neck tribe village they are a Tibeto-Burmese ethnic group, who originate from Myanmar/Burma, they are not native to Thailand. All of the Kayan Long Neck who live in Thailand have crossed the border as refugees from Myanmar. Most of them have fled persecution to seek safety and refuge in Thailand. It is a bit touristy but we did buy some items from them, we hope this helped in some way. I was very curious to see these villages as I had never seen a Long Neck Tribe before. When the girls are as young as five, they start wearing the brass rings around their necks. As they age, the coil is replaced by a longer one, and more turns are added, making the neck look elongated and stretched, hence the name “long neck.” The rings are heavy and cause bruising around the collarbone and neck, but this does not deter the women from wearing them. The neck itself does not stretch; instead, the collarbone and rib cage is weakened, collapsing down under the weight of the ten pound coils.

When the women become young adults, they are given the option to continue wearing the rings, or they can have them removed; most choose to keep them on. The women are very friendly and encouraged us to take photos and try on the half set of rings that are just tied at the back. The families had some lovely bags, scarfs, hats and clothing that they hand made, for sale. Even though their homes were basic they seem happy.

We took a trip to the Opium museum

The Golden Triangle is the area where the borders of Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar (Burma) meet at the Ruak and Mekong rivers. Chiang Rai province in northern Thailand is the gateway to this unique region in Southeast Asia.

Most of the world’s heroin came from the Golden Triangle until the early 21st century when opium production in Afghanistan increased. Myanmar was the world’s second-largest source of opium after Afghanistan up to 2022, producing some 25% of the world’s opium. Laos and Thailand have both reached such low levels of opium poppy cultivation that they do no longer produce for the international opium market. Currently Myanmar has moved to the number one spot, and is now the world’s largest opium producer.

Foreign traders (primarily British) had been illegally exporting opium mainly from India to China and Thailand since the 18th century,

The House of Opium is a small private museum established by Mrs. Phatcharee Srimathayakun. Phatcharee knew that if these antiques were not preserved, they may be all bought and dispersed by foreign collectors. Therefore, in 1989, she opened House of Opium museum to display opium artifacts and combine the interesting stories of opium in the Golden Triangle.  There are 2,000 additional artistic objects. The presentations are simply, preserving the concept of a small museum while providing a comprehensive knowledge of opium in the Golden Triangle through its valuable antiques. It is worth a visit to learn the history of Opium

Thailand now grows coffee, Tea and Tobacco the government encouraged this rather than the production of Opium. We visited one of the Tea plantations Doi Mae Salong, besides the beautiful tea field landscape spreading as far as the eye can see, you’ll also find the truly chic Choui Fong Tea Café, it is a very beautiful spot that reminded me of the vineyards in Australia.

Chiang Rai is full of surprises with lots to do and see.